Your buggy will arrive like this.

Remove the box from the buggy

Remove all of the twisted wire ties and zip ties that hold the contents in. Then carefully remove all of the contents and place them nearby where they will not be in the way or get scratched.

CONTENTS:

• 1 buggy
• 2 seats
• 1 luggage rack
• 1 fuel tank w/ filler cap
• 2 long rollcage rails
• 2 small rollcage side rails
• 1 rollcage H-bar
• 1 rollcage crossbar
• 2 front tires on wheels
• 2 rear tires on wheels
• 2 front fenders & fender brackets
• 2 rear fenders & fender brackets
• 2 rearview mirrors
• 1 box containing:
• Battery
• Battery Acid
• Battery Cap
• Battery hold-down strap
• 1 box containing:
• 1 bag of bolts
• 1 bag of plastic end caps for rails
• Seatbelts/shoulder harnesses
• Cloth rollcage covers
• 1 tool kit
• 1 steering wheel
• 1 owner's manual
• 1 extra fuel valve
• 1 breather hose for the gas cap

First jack or lift up the rear end of the buggy with a floor jack and place a jackstand of milk crate under the rear end of the buggy.

Then remove the lower shock absorber bolts from each side of the swing arm and attach the shock absorbers.

Now remove the lugnuts from the rear hubs.

Place the rear tires/wheels on the hubs, then thread the lugnuts onto the lugs and cross-tighten them.

Now jack or lift the rear end up, remove the jackstands or milkcrate, and allow your buggy to rest on its rear wheels.

Now jack or lift up the front end of the buggy and place your jackstands or milkcrate under it.

Find this tab at the outer end of the front suspension's lower control arm. Note the square hole in it.

This is the mounting stud for the lower balljoint on the steering spindle. Note the square area above the threads.

Insert the lower balljoint stud into the square hole on the lower control arm. Ensure that the square portion of the stud is seated all the way into the square hole on the control arm. Turn the front spindle to align these as necessary.

Once the stud is properly seated into the lower control arm, thread on one of the castellated nuts onto the stud and tighten it.

As you are tightening the castellated nut, ensure that when you are done, one of the slots in the nut are aligned with the cotter-key hole in the stud.

Now insert one of the provided cotter keys into the hole in the stud and bend the ends back so it will not fall out.

Now repeat this same procedure on the opposite side of the front suspension.

This is how it should look when properly installed.

Note the grease nipples on each lower control arm pivot and always remember to keep them properly greased.

Failure to properly lubricate suspension components will void your warranty on them.

Once the front suspension is properly put together, remove the lugnuts from the front hubs, mount the front wheels/tires, reattach the lugnuts and cross-tighten them.

Finally, attach the hubcaps for each wheel.

Your buggy should now look like this.

This is what is enclosed in the battery box you removed earlier.

• Empty motorcycle battery
• Container of battery acid with filler tube
• Battery cells caps (the long plastic strip)
• Rubber battery cushion
• Battery cover

Follow the enclosed directions to fill the battery with the battery acid.

Once that's done, place the rubber battery cushion in the battery tray.

Carefully place the battery on the cushion in the tray.

Connect the battery cables to the battery using the terminal screws provided in the battery kit.

• The RED wire connects to the POSITIVE (+) terminal.
• The BLACK wire goes to the NEGATIVE (–) one.

NOTE:Do NOT reverse these connections, or you will burn up the electrical system and void your warranty.

Cap the battery with its cover.

Strap the battery into the tray using the hold-down strap.

This is the RIGHT way to install the pre-2007-model fuel tank.

To ensure proper placement:

• The FILLER CAP should be on the DRIVER SIDE
• The FUEL PETCOCK (the vacuum-operated fuel valve on the underside of the tank) should be on the PASSENGER SIDE.

This is the WRONG way to install the pre-2007-model fuel tank because the petcock is on the wrong side.

If you install this type fuel tank backwards, the first time you go over a bump, the upper part of the suspension will hit the petcock (see photo w/ arrows at left) and bend/break it (see inset of bent petcock in the same photo). It is also possible to actually bend/warp the underside of the tank itself where the petcock screws into the tank.

WARNING: Bent fuel tanks and/or petcocks are NOT covered under our limited warranty because of the exclusion clause covering incorrectly installed parts.

This is the correct way to install the 2007-model-year fuel tank.

You can tell if you have a 2007-model-year Magnum 150 or 250 by the position and style of the handbrake lever. If the handbrake lever looks like one like you would find in a regular automobile and it's positioned between the seats (see photo at left), you have a 2007 buggy.

If you have a handbrake lever that looks almost identical to the shift lever and mounts well fowrard of the seats, you have a pre-2007 buggy.

Now connect the fuel line (the one with the filter in it) to its nipple on the carburetor. Clamp the hose to the nipple with the butterfly clamp provided.

Next, connect the fuel petcock's vacuum line to the engines vacuum Y-connector.

NOTE: Sometimes the factory in China will plug this Y-connector into the carburetor fuel bowl drain hose for shipment. If your buggy is like this, disconnect the drain hose from the Y- or T-connector, then insert the Y- or T-connectoir into the fuel tank's vacuum line.

Clamp the lose to the Y-connector using the butterfly clamp provided.

Now rest the fuel tank on it's mounting brackets.

Now thread 3 of the bolts into their brackets. Do NOT insert the front passenger-side bolt yet!

The front passenger-side tank bracket comes from the factory slightly out of position and this prevents the mounting bolt from threading properly into its threads when the others have all been installed properly.

This can be solved by taking a large mallet or dead-blow hammer and tapping the bracket in the proper direction to align the backet with the rubber grommet on the tank.

WARNING: Do NOT use excessive force on this bracket. If you bend it back and forth enough times, it will break the weld holding the bracket to the chassis. Such damage will NOT be covered under our Limited Warranty!

Here is a properly-installed fuel tank.

If the fuel cap for your buggy didn't already have the little breather tube installed on it, find it in yourt parts bag and install it on the nipple on the cap.

First, find the driver's seat. This is the one with the side bolsters towards the driver's side of the buggy.

Move the seat rails until both are either fully to the rear or fully to the front. Then take the seat and place it in the buggy so that the seat rail studs go into their respctive mounting holes in the chassis.

Next, thread a nut on each of the 4 seat rail studs and tighten them finger-tight.

Repeat these steps for the passenger seat.

Then, lying on your back, reach under the buggy with your wrench and tighten all the seat mounting nuts.

Your seats should look like this now.

Find the 4 bolts used for this purpose as pictured at left.

Next, thread 2 of the bolts through the chassis mounts into each of the lever housings and tighten them.

The seatbelts for each occupant are joined in the center and share a common mounting point on the chassis, so follow these steps carefully.

First, untangle the seatbelts and shoulder harnesses and hang them from your hands by the top mounting points of each shoulder harness.

Then drape the seatbelts and harnesses over the seats as shown.

Now feed the harness top mounting point through the innermost of the 2 holes in the seat back.

Feed the entire driver's side outer harness and seatbelt through the hole, as well.

Now feed the outer harness and seatbelt half through the outer hole in the seat back.

The harness and driver's seat should now look ike this.

Now repeat the same process for the passenger seat.

Now take a seatbelt or harness end and attach it to the chassis. We started here with the outer passenger seatbelt mount.

Insert the seatbelt end through the gap between the seat and chassis.

Then remove the nut from the seat belt mounting bolt.

This is the order for the hardware used to mount all the seatbelt and harness ends.

This allows the seatbelts and harnesses to rotate properly around their bolts.

Repeat this process for the driver's side.

This is how the seatbelt ends should look after tightening.

Now run the driver's seat all the way forward and insert the center belt anchor between the seats.

Now, using the same hardware order used for the outer seatbelt ends, attach the center seatbelt anchor to its mounting point on the chassis.

Finally, take each shoulder harness anchor and, using the same hardware order as you used for all the other mounts, attach them to their mounting points on the chassis.

Aim the front wheels so they are pointing straight ahead.

Then take the steering wheel and place it on its mounting flange on the steering column.

Rotate the steering wheel on the flange until it is as close to vertical as possible with its mounting holes aligned with the mounting holes on the flange.

Now take the steering wheel mounting bolts and insert them into the mounting holes. Thread the acorn nuts onto each mounting bolt and finger tighten. Then take the correct size wrench and tighten them all.

Take your radiator and align it with its mounts located just in front of the fuel tank.

Insert and finger tighten the 4 radiator mounting bolts into the threads on the radiator support. Then tighten them with a wrench.

Now push the radiator hoses onto their respective nipples on the radiator. Use a pair of pliers to place the radiator hose clamps over the nipples.

Next, plug the radiator fan wire into its matching connector on the chassis wiring harness.

This is what a correctly installed radiator should look like.

This is where the luggage rack should go.

If you do these steps in order, you can do them without assistance.

First, while resting the front mounts on the chassis, align the lower luggage rack support with the hole on the chassis. Insert the proper bolt, thread on its nut, and tighten.

Repeat this process for the opposite side.

First, we need to install the longitudinal (front-to-rear) rollcage bars.

Start at the rear by inserting the bar on its mount, then the front.

Insert the rollcage bolts and start the nuts on them, but do NOT tighten them at this time.

Please note that the rearview mirror mount loop is supposed to be towards the OUTSIDE of the buggy.

Here's the finished longitudinal bars installed.

Next we need to install the rollcage side bars.

Insert the bottom of a side bar onto its mount on the chassis, then align it with its mounting hole on the longitudinal bar.

Insert the bolts and start them, but again, do NOT tighten them all the way yet.

Repeat this process for the other side.

Here's what correctly installed side bars look like.

Now for the rollcage H-bar. This is how it should be positioned.

Insert these bolts through the longitudinal bars and thread them into the ends of the H-bar.

As before, do NOT tighten them all the way yet.

Finally, use two more of those same bolts to attach the rollcage rear crossbar. Again, do NOT tighten them.

Now starting with the bottom-most bolts and working your way up the rollcage, thoroughly tighten every rollcage bolt.

Here is the rollcage completely installed.

Next, the rollcage covers.

First, open each cover by unfastening its Velcro closure(s).

Then, place each cover in position over its corresponding section of the rollcage and fasten the Velcro.

Finally, lace the sunshade onto the rollcage.

Here is your completed rollcage.

Remove the headlight pivot screws from each headlight.

Place each headlight into a bracket, then thread the pivot screws into the headlight. Do NOT tighten them all the way, but tighten them enough that when you aim the headlight, it will hold its position in the bracket.

Now aim your headlights, then tighten the pivot screws all the way tight.

Be careful not to overtighten the screws or you will strip out the holes on the headlight, thus voiding your warranty on this part.

Here are your correctly installed headlights.

Now lay out the fenders and their mounting brackets.

Which fenders/brackets go to the front and to the rear are shown here.

First mount the front fender bracket to the front steering spindle.

Then bolt the front fender to the bracket.

Repeat this process for the other side.

Next, attach a rear fender bracket to the chassis.

Finally, bolt the rear fender to its bracket.

Repeat this process for the other side.

Remove the nut from a riewview mirror and attach it to its bracket.

Your Magnum 250 ships from the factory with NO coolant in the cooling system. BEFORE operating your buggy, you MUST:

1. Remove the radiator cap.
2. Fill the cooling system with the same ratio of antifreeze to water that you would use in your full-size automobile. This ratio will vary according to the region/climate in which you live.
3. Now bleed the air from the cooling system. Do this by:
4. • Leave the cap off the radiator
   • Start the engine
   • After the engine warms and the thermostat opens, an air bubble will surface in the radiator and the coolant level will go down.
   • Top off the cooling system so that the coolant level is at the bottom of the radiator filler neck.
   • Put the radiator cap back on.
   • Now fill the coolant overflow tank about 1/4 full with coolant.

WARNING: Running the engine without the cooling system being properly filled voids your warranty!

Finally, even though your Magnum buggy is shipped from the factory with oil in the crankcase, double-check your engine for proper oil level using the dipstick on the engine oil filler plug.

Also go through all the nuts and bolts and ensure that they are tight. Sometimes they come loose during the trip from China.

WARNING: Running the engine without the crankcase being properly filled voids your warranty!

Here is your completed buggy!